A N E X C L U S I V E I N T R O D U C T I O N Ever since European settlement of New Zealand began in the 19th century, beer - in its various forms - has been an important social factor in the national life. In fact, the first beer brewed in New Zealand was by Captain James Cook while anchored in Ship Cove in the outer reaches of Queen Charlotte Sound in January 1770. Three years later Cook brewed a beer flavoured with local spruce tree needles in order to combat scurvy aboard his ship. He also experimented with the use of young Rimu branches as another treatment in March 1773, using wort, molasses and Rimu bark and leaves. The brewing of most commercial varieties then ended up in the hands of two foreign companies interested in making profits for shareholders. However, late in the 20th century more and younger New Zealanders were travelling overseas, and were astonished at 34 OCTOBER 2016 good of the consumer. Determined that he would set up a brewery, the Southlander wanted to not only brew different styles but produce a product that would find favour with the various and diverse palates of the present consumer and another untapped market… women. Witnessing what had happened within the highly successful New Zealand wine industry, the Nally family constructed a brewery in a disused cowshed on a friend’s farm. It took 18 months to build and obtain the requisite licences and consents, but in 1999 the Invercargill Brewery was opened for business. After considerable experimentation and testing, the brewery launched with four different types of beer that quickly became favourites with the locals. There were problems with promoting the beer, much of them stemming from the brewery being situated so far away from most of the market. Nally found tours of the brewery were not only popular with local people but also gave him an insight into what the consumer wanted. He also discovered that, like the big brewers, he would have to market by branding. Consumer education on style and beer appreciation could then be introduced. The beers were selling well in local cafes, in Queenstown and at the brewery door, but like many new products, it was difficult to supply as A SOUTHLAND SUCCESS STORY the wide varieties of beers available to the consumer. Beer drinkers among the travellers were appalled at the blandness of New Zealand commercial beers when they returned home, and a craft brewing industry was born. It was not centrally planned like most changes to the national life, but happened spontaneously throughout the country. Some of these breweries were conceived with enthusiasm and collapsed under the weight of commercial reality. Others survived and prospered…one of them the Invercargill Brewery. Started in 1999 in a converted dairy shed on the south side of the city, the brewery is the southernmost in the country and has a nationwide following for its craft beers. The company is a family business operated by the Nally family, which is also renowned for producing generations of Southland rugby players. Chief executive and head brewer Steve Nally leads a staff of 12 in the southern city, after opening the brewery with dad Gerry after arriving home from three years of OE in the United Kingdom and France. Before going overseas, Nally had completed a Bachelor of Science degree in chemistry at the University of Canterbury. At that time he was a typical Southlander, despite his years’ studying in Christchurch. Conservative in his attitudes to most things - especially in his preference for beer - like most Southland-born beer-drinking males, he had a favourite brand of beer and would drink no other. However, once in Europe, all of this changed. Nally was introduced to a wide variety of beer styles and was amazed at the difference in style and flavour. “I was just over three years in the UK and France, and found the beers to be not only wide-ranging in style, but also vibrant and tasteful,” he says. Nally, appalled at the blandness of New Zealand beer, realised he’d been drilled into buying beer by brand name rather than by style. The big breweries had undertaken very successful marketing of their mass-produced products, but Nally knew this had to change for the Steve Nally By Peter Owen
FT-Oct16
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